A Weekend Getaway in Devonport - Auckland’s Charming Little Seaside Village

If ever the city of Auckland, possessed a hidden gem, Devonport would be it. Situated a mere ten minutes by ferry from the Auckland Central Business District, Devonport is an aesthetic feast for the senses. Offering a myriad of family friendly activities, Devonport is an ideal holiday destination in New Zealand! With beautiful Edwardian heritage buildings for the historically inclined, spectacular bay scenery and some of the most stunning beaches in Auckland, this village by the sea has it all.

With so much going on, the many activities in Devonport welcomes visitors, many of whom are surprised that the little seaside village isn’t actually an island, but an extended part of the Auckland peninsula. Stepping off Fuller’s, the ferry service that departs the Auckland Central Business District for Devonport every thirty minutes, we were immediately greeted by the amiable atmosphere that surrounds the little village. Children playing on the sunny beach – including a little one who had even managed to bury her younger brother up to his head in the warm sand – sweeping views of the Auckland gulf and mariners sailing past as New Zealand’s own Christmas trees, Pohutukawas, are in full bloom with their red flowers blowing in the wind.

My fiancée and I, encouraged by the welcoming atmosphere, decide to further explore this unique village. Surrounded by its three volcanic mountains, believed to have been occupied by indigenous Maori from about 1350AD, colonial architecture and several historical antiquities and remnants of by gone days, Devonport maintains a unique charm and a pace of life that is relaxingly different from the rest of Auckland.

 

Upon arrival by ferry, the most imposing and immediately visible building in Devonport is The Esplanade Hotel. Situated on the intersection of Queen’s Parade and Victoria Rd, this Edwardian baroque revival hotel, completed in 1903 served as an accommodation point for ferry travelers arriving at the crossroads between the city of Auckland and the rest of the North Shore. The Esplanade Hotel, classed as luxury accomodation in New Zealand, boasts an assortment of luxury hotel suites and rooms, catering to a variety of customers, local and international alike. The lavishly decorated Sir Peter Blake Suite caters to a range of customers from wealthy international visitors looking for luxury stay in Auckland to local history buffs with a variety of budget ranges. The hotel also boasts a vintage bar and several antiquities ranging from a crystal chandelier in the hallway, to the timeless, brass chess set sitting comfortably in the coffee room. One feels as if time has stopped in the 1900’s right here in this hotel, and this feeling manifests tenfold as one walks the hotel corridors in the evenings, lighted chandeliers, art-deco furniture, and little nooks and corners that warmly envelope guests, inviting them together for a friendly conversation over a cup of coffee. We decide to leave the 19^th century and back into the 21st – crossing the hotel threshold – to explore the streets of Devonport for a heartwarming dinner.

I feel like a nice well-done steak, my fiancée on the other hand wanted a dish that was a bit on the lighter side. We were able to compromise when a promising little pub – Wild Bill’s Rib House, prime bar food in Auckland – caught our attention. Just around the corner from the Esplanade, a short way up Victoria Street, Wild Bill’s offers prime Kiwi tucker at its best. We were seated by the rather eccentric hostess at the back of the pub – complete with comfy couches, pool tables, 90’s arcade machine and all – and ended up ordering what was arguably the best Fish n’ Chips that we have ever tasted in Auckland. Wild Bill’s Fish n Chips comes highly recommended – a generous serving of double-fried chips for extra crunchiness, a healthy serving of fresh fish fried in Wild Bill’s own battered fish fry recipe served with a slice of lemon, salt and pepper, a refreshing garden salad and a mouthwatering array of accompanying Tabasco sauces – one couldn’t really go wrong there. We downed the entire meal with gusto.

After our savory meal, we started feeling that familiar effect that often directly follows the consumption of a large, meaty dish, producing cravings for something sweet. Chocolate lovers will be most delighted to hear that Devonport has its own little chocolatiere shop. Devonport Chocolates on Wynyard Street produces some of Auckland’s tastiest and unique chocolates, and some of the best chocolate shopping in Auckland. – the chili chocolate range is a must – but the lemon and date truffles remain this shop’s signature product alongside some of then best sweets and treats in New Zealand. I ended up buying the exotic Habanero mix chocolates and my fiancée the heady cherry liquor chocolates, a perfect chocolate indulgence at the end of the evening.

One of the most appealing aspects of Devonport would be the magnificent sunrises it gets. Waking early the next day, we are treated to a plethora of pink and crimson colored skies, a sight that, I am told by our charming Esplanade hostess, happens only in this area due to its central location and Auckland gulf views. A sight further magnified by the presence of the New Zealand Pohutukawa trees that line Devonport’s coastal boardwalk – the trees throw up bright red flowers in early December throughout the summer months – accenting the pinkish red sunrise. Our hostess at the Esplanade, a charming lady by the name of Dee, tells us that Devonport is also a mecca for curio shopping in Auckland. A small side street conveniently sandwiched in between the information center and Wild Bill’s Rib House reveals a pleasant collection of Kiwiana curio shops. Window shopping becomes inevitably compulsory walking down this lane, and the local shops carry a vast assortment of trinkets. From little tin sheep figurines, to silver fern key chains, Maori jade pendants and tuatara amulets to an assortment of ‘jandals’ – local slang for flip flops – jumbled together in an eccentric mix of little shops and brick cafes; shopping down 9 Victoria street, locally known as ‘The Arcade’, is an absolute feast for the senses and offers plenty of activities for the whole family.

The wide variety of little shops and streets ensure that visitors always have something to do in Devonport. Whether it be something for history buffs, summer loving beach going families, or the avid adventurer – scaling the side of Mt Victoria, one of Devonport’s ‘local’ mountains  – the little village surprisingly ends up spoiling visitors for choice, and considering its size, there are pleny of activities for the whole family. On today’s itinerary, we decide to have lunch al fresco and a little red and white café around the corner of Clarence Street catches our eye. With its many deck chairs lounging in the sun, happy customers, vibrant atmosphere and cheerful staff, Devonport’s Stone Oven Café is as famous for its hospitality as it is for its service, environment and delicious cafe food in Auckland. Cozy, warm and homely, the interior of the café boasts a contemporary household feel while wooden tables and chairs furnish an attached al fresco deck outside. One can choose from a variety of delectable quiches and pies, and other light lunches. I decide to go for a savory vegetable and chicken quiche, and my fiancée a tasty cinnamon apple pie, a chocolate brownie, and a gingerbread man for the both of us - cafe food in Auckland at its tastiest!

Feeling contented with meal and in the mood for a good read, Devonport’s public library on Victoria Street beckons. A large brick building, that appears to be a mix between contemporary and gothic architecture styles, is accessible by anyone. It contains a vast variety of books, from children’s books, contemporary fiction, reality magazines and postgraduate level study books. The overall reading environment is pleasant, warm and quiet; the library is furnished with plush bean bags one can slump into with a good read, and several large couches which can make the library a great center for family friendly reading activities.

After our relaxing read, and with the sun a quarter of the way to sunset, we decide to take a walk down King Edward Parade. The street, famous for the many Victorian houses overlooking the bay and some of the oldest heritage buildings in Auckland, is undoubtedly one of the most prime real estate locations in New Zealand. At the end of King Edward Parade, about a twenty minute walk from the Devonport town center, and overlooking the bay is the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum. A contemporary new building – relocated to this site from its original location across the New Zealand Navy – the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum is a definite must see. The museum contains complete records of New Zealand’s naval history, from its most humblest beginnings to the country’s overseas campaigns with the Allied Forces during the World Wars, up until the Navy’s ongoing participation in Pacific campaigns and defense of New Zealand coastal borders; the museum has it all – replicas of Nazi and Allied Forces battleships and actual anti-aircraft gun attachments once fitted to naval warships, to the typical white and blue sailor outfits that adorn its halls – the museum is sure to leave visitors hungry for New Zealand’s rich naval history and traditions.

Grabbing an early dinner at the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum's modern café overlooking the Auckland Harbor with a brilliant sunset, and feeling very content for having spent a weekend holiday in Devonport, we can definitely say that this trip has been a fun filled and deeply fulfilling one. With a range of some of the best summer activities in New Zealand, a weekend of sun, sand, rich history, good food and good company – is a rare and unique mix anywhere in the world - and the little seaside village of Devonport, Auckland’s hidden treasure, definitely has it all!

Written by Miguel Garcia

Photography by Simone Garcia

Planning your holiday in Devonport, Auckland, New Zealand? Here's more information to help you out:

Ferry Service in Auckland by Fullers
Click to check out Fullers' latest Ferry timetables and return fares from Auckland to Devonport

The Esplanade Hotel

1 Victoria Road, Devonport, Auckland 6040, New Zealand

Click to read reviews and book a room at The Esplanade Hotel through TripAdvisor

Wild Bill's Ribhouse

5 Victoria Road, Devonport, North Shore City, Auckland 0624, New Zealand

Ph: +64 9 445 3142

Devonport Chocolates

17 Wynyard Street, Devonport, Auckland 6040, New Zealand

Ph: +64 9 445 6001

Click to read reviews on Devonport Chocolates

The Arcade

9 Victoria Road, Devonport, North Shore CIty, Auckland 0624, New Zealand

Devonport Stone Oven Bakery and Cafe

5 Clarence Street, Devonport, Auckland 6040, New Zealand

Ph: +64 9 445 3185

Click to read reviews on Devonport Stone Oven Bakery and Cafe

Devonport Public Library

Windsor Reserve, Victoria Road, Devonport, Auckland 0624, New Zealand

Ph: + 64 9 486 8460

Torpedo Bay Navy Museum

64 King Edward Parade, Torpedo Bay, Devonport, Auckland 6040, New Zealand

Ph: + 64 9 445 5186

Admission is free. Hours: 10am - 5pm . Open 7 days a week except Good Friday, Christmas Day and Boxing Day.
Click to read reviews on Torpedo Bay Navy Museum
Click to check out Torpedo Bay Navy Museum Website

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